Appliqué Tutorial for Project Walk Together

Hand Appliqué Tutorial: 2 Ways to Sew

Created by Lauren Holt

Appliqué is a type of sewing where cut out fabric

shapes are sewn down onto a background fabric to

create designs. You can use appliqué to sew any shape

you like, from a familiar heart shape to letters for

spelling out a message or to recreate your favorite

drawing as fabric art!

This tutorial will cover two methods of hand appliqué,

raw edge appliqué and needle turn appliqué.

This tutorial is intended for beginning to intermediate

sewers, using as few necessary materials as possible.

Necessary materials:

● 2 colors of fabric

● Fabric scissors

● Sewing needle

● Thread

● Sewing pins or clips

A note on fabric: For this tutorial, cotton broadcloth or

quilter’s cotton is recommended for ease of work and

flexibility.

Depending on the style of textile art being done, craft

felt can also be a good option, especially for raw edge appliqué, as it does not fray when cut.

A note on pins, needles and thread: short pins, thin thread and small needles can all help you

make smaller stitches in small spaces if you have access to them. This helps “hide” the

stitches if that is one of your goals.

Optional Materials:

● Paper or card stock, scissors, and a pencil or marker for an appliqué shape template

● A marking tool: tailor’s chalk or fading fabric pens. Water-soluble marker can work too

if you’re able to get your project wet later, or light pencil on light-colored fabric.

● An iron and ironing board

Table of Contents

Materials page 1

Getting Started page 3

Raw Edge Appliqué Tutorial page 6

Raw Edge Decorative Stitching page 7

Needle Turn Appliqué Tutorial pages 8-9

Examples of Appliqué in Quilts pages 10-14

Glossary pages 15-16

Getting Started

What is Appliqué?

Appliqué is a type of sewing where cut out fabric shapes are sewn down onto a background

fabric to create designs. People around the world use it in clothing, quilts, decorations and

other textile or fabric art. (Examples of appliqué in quilts from many cultures can be found

on pages 10-14)

You can use appliqué to sew any shape you like, from a familiar heart shape to letters for

spelling out a message, or to recreate your favorite drawing as fabric art!

Planning your project:

● Decide what you want to make

Curves are more difficult to sew than straight lines, but

that’s why many quilters choose to appliqué curved

shapes! Simpler shapes are easier for beginners. You can

use a shape you make yourself, or a template shared by

someone else.

Remember that your fabric shape will be the same as your

template shape, so be sure you have one you like!

Hearts can make good beginner projects, for practicing both curves and points.

Choose the type of appliqué you want to do: raw edge or needle turn. Raw edge

appliqué is often easier for beginners making fabric art, and needle turn appliqué is

preferred for quilts and clothing that will be washed and

used a lot.

● Prepare your materials

○ Fabric should be uncreased and lie flat.

If it is not flat, you may need to iron it. If you don’t

have an iron and your fabric is wrinkled, you can try

getting it wet with a damp cloth and smoothing it flat

with your hands or a heavy book. You could also

dampen it and then put it in the dryer, or use a steamer, if you have those

options.

○ Thread your needle. Choose thread that is close to your appliqué fabric if you

want your stitches to be hidden, or very different from your fabric if you want

them to be visible.

A shorter length of thread is easier to

sew with. Try the length from your

fingertips to your elbow to start. If

you want extra-thick thread to make

it show up more, double it.

Tie a knot at the end of your thread.

If you are doubling your thread, tie

both ends together.

Creating appliqué shapes:

● Create your appliqué template

Paper or card stock can be used to make your template. Just

draw the shape you want! Keep in mind that the outline of what

you draw is the shape your fabric will be.

If you don’t want to draw your own appliqué template, you can

use one someone else has made, or you can cut out a shape

that’s already in the fabric, like this flower.

You might ask a friend or teacher whose art you like to draw

what you want, or there are many simple appliqué shapes

online.

Remember that your fabric shape will be the same as your

template shape, so be sure you have one you like, and cut it

out carefully. You can keep working on your drawing as many

times as you want.

● Cut out your appliqué shape

Pin your template to your fabric the way you want your

shape to look, with the “right” side facing up, so you get

the shape you want.

The “right” side of your fabric is the one the pattern

was printed on, so it’s usually brighter. On the “wrong”

side it can be hard to see the pattern. On solid color

fabrics, it can be hard to tell which is the “right” side

and which is the “wrong” side. As long as you like the

color, this can be okay. Experienced sewers might

notice, but it’s your art and you can make it however

you want to.

For raw edge appliqué: no border is needed, but be

careful not to cut into your shape!

For needle turn appliqué: cut a ¼-inch border around

shape. You can mark this with your marking tool if you have one.

Cut carefully, and don’t cut into the edges of your template. The edge you cut

here will be the same shape you sew down!

● Pin your appliqué shape to your background fabric

The number of pins you use will depend on the size of

your shape. One or two pins is often enough. Make sure

your shape lies flat so you don’t end up with bumps in

your final piece.

Because this cat and moon both have sharp points in their shapes,

more pins were used. The cat is made with cotton batik fabric, and

the moon with craft felt. The moon will not fray.

Method 1: Raw Edge Appliqué

Raw Edge Appliqué is often used in fabric art and art quilts to create shapes that are more

“true to life” or “true to drawing” because the fabric is cut exactly into the shape desired.

It’s especially useful for beginners and artists who are making pieces they intend to display as

hanging art. If your appliqué is going to be washed or folded a lot, this may not be the best

method for you.

Sewing Raw Edge Appliqué

The simplest sewing stitch to use for this technique is running

stitch, sometimes called dolphin stitch. This is the most common

and basic sewing stitch, where you push your needle up through

the layers of fabric, move it forward along the fabric’s edge a

small length, and then back down again, in a line. If you know

other stitches you like, you could use those instead.

(Image by Jomegat, Wikimedia Commons)

Try to keep your stitch length pretty short, so that your shape will stay secure. Long stitches

and large spaces between stitches may lead to your fabric coming loose later.

Pull just until you feel resistance. If you pull too hard on the thread, you can wrinkle the

fabric. If your thread gets tangled, untangle it carefully before continuing.

Start sewing!

● Push your needle through both layers of fabric from the

“wrong side” of the background fabric, so that the needle

comes out just inside the edge of the appliqué shape.

● Stitch around the edge of your shape until you have secured

all parts of your shape to the background fabric. Be careful

not to get your thread caught on anything as you stitch.

● If you run out of thread, tie a knot on the back side of your

fabric and re-thread your needle to start where you left off.

● When you reach the end, tie a knot on the back side of your

fabric. That’s it!

Alternative: Raw Edge Appliqué with a Decorative Stitch

Another type of raw edge appliqué can be done with decorative

stitching. Decorative stitching is any kind of stitch that is meant to

be a visible part of the art.

For this example, a beginning sewer used red threads to make

stitches on the ends of the flower petals, and then also in the

middle, securing the flower to background fabric. Then they used

yellow thread at the very center and just on the background

fabric. For this decorative effect, they used doubled thread to

make the stitches stand out more.

It was their first try, so it’s not perfect and the back is pretty

messy. But as long as you like how it turns out, it’s successful art!

Method 2: Needle-turn Appliqué

Needle-turn appliqué involves turning the cut edge of the appliqué shape underneath and

sewing the shape down with near-invisible stitches. It’s called “needle turn” because you use

the needle to tuck the fabric as you go, although you can use your fingers for that part if it’s

easier.

This type of appliqué is used when the artist wants to create a clean edge, or is worried about

wear and tear on a project like clothing, or a quilt, that will be folded and washed many

times.

Note: This technique begins to be different from raw edge appliqué when you’re ready to cut

out your shape, so we’ll begin there.

Cutting out your shape:

For needle turn appliqué, you want to leave a border of fabric around

your shape. This is the fabric that will be folded under. Usually, it’s

recommended that you give yourself ¼ inch of fabric as a border.

For curved shapes, you will need to cut small slits in the border to let it

fold flat.

You can also iron the border fabric into place, or hand-press it to make a crease

where you want it, so the sewing is easier. Make sure you make all folds to the

back or “wrong” side of your fabric.

Start Sewing!

● For this example light-colored thread was used so it would

show up in photos. If you don’t want your thread to be

noticed, choose a color that matches the fabric.

● Push your needle through from the “wrong side” of the

background fabric, so that the needle comes out just next

to or under the edge of the appliqué shape.

● Begin to turn the ¼-inch border under. The “right” side should be facing up, and the

turned edge should make a smooth fold. Corners may also need extra care.

● Use a “slip stitch” also called “invisible stitch” to secure your shape to the backing

fabric. For this stitch, you will make one stitch on your shape fabric right at the edge,

and then another through the background fabric right next to it to create

nearly-invisible stitches. If you are not concerned about the stitch being visible, you

could also use whip stitch or running stitch.

● Carefully stitch around your appliqué

shape, turning your border under and

paying attention to the fabric as you go to

make sure you have a clean edge. In this

example you can see that sometimes the

stitches were bigger and sometimes they

were smaller, and the last fold wasn’t

quite right, so the heart is a little wonky.

Mistakes like this are just part of being a

beginner, and as long as you like the end

result, it’s good art. Some fabric artists

do these things on purpose!

● When you reach your starting stitches, make one or two more stitches to secure the

shape, then push your needle back through the background fabric.

● Tie a knot in your thread and cut off the

remainder. Congratulations! You’ve

appliquéd a shape with needle turn

appliqué!

The back side of a beginner’s attempt at needle turn appliqué.

Examples of Appliqué in Quilts

These 10 quilts each show a different way a quiltmaker used appliqué. Some create repeating

patterns, while others tell stories or show original designs. In each case, the appliqué was

applied by hand by a different maker in a different part of the world.

Ralli, probably made in Sindh,

Pakistan, circa 1970-1990, maker

unidentified. IQM 2005.033.0019

Quiltmakers in Pakistan often

don’t use templates, but cut

their shapes freehand. The

appliquéd parts of this quilt

include the snowflake-like

shapes, the crosses, and all the

small shapes that make up the

three borders.

For a closer look, visit: https://www.internationalquiltmuseum.org/quilt/20050330019

Kaiulani’s Fan and Crown, made by Marjorie Kerr in

Hawaii, USA, circa 1981-1990. IQM 2014.074.0001

Like the ralli quilt above, Hawaiian quilts like

this one feature geometric appliqué designs.

The central red fabric seen here is all one

piece. The maker folded her fabric into a small

square and then cut a design into it so that it

would be symmetrical when the fabric was

unfolded.

For a closer look: https://www.internationalquiltmuseum.org/quilt/20140740001

Bai Jia Bei, made by Pan Kai Li in Wang Jian Cun,

Shaanxi, China, circa 2013. IQM 2013.020.0001

This style of quilt from China, also called

a 100 Good Wishes quilt, is made to

celebrate a new baby’s birth. This

example has tigers, frogs and birds

appliquéd and embroidered onto it, as

well as other animals. The appliquéd

figures are associated with protection

from evil influences and disease.

For a closer look, visit: https://www.internationalquiltmuseum.org/quilt/20130200001

Tomato, made by Eiko Okano in Tokyo, Japan, circa

1998. IQM 2017.081.0015

Eiko Okano is a quiltmaker from Japan who

makes many types of quilts, including

quilts about her favorite foods. This quilt

block is only 8x8 inches, but she has

appliquéd onto it a pair of tomatoes in a

bowl. She used dark thread to stitch

outlines for shapes, and a second layer of

lighter-colored red fabrics to make

highlights.

For a closer look, visit: https://www.internationalquiltmuseum.org/quilt/20170810015

Daisy Chain, made in Shaker Heights,

Ohio, USA by an unidentified maker,

circa 1936. IQM 1997.007.0834

This quilt shows one of the most

common ways appliqué is used in

traditional quiltmaking: to

decorate a quilt with flowers and

other rounded shapes that are

difficult to sew by piecing. Each

white flower petal, yellow

center, green leaf and stem were

sewn on separately.

For a closer look, visit: https://www.internationalquiltmuseum.org/quilt/19970070834

Paradis Perdu No. 2, made by Mariel Clarmont in Paris, France, circa 1986. 2018.035.0003

This quiltmaker from France created what’s called a triptych, or a series of three panels that

come together to form one artwork. In this work, appliqué is used to sew beautiful curves.

The quilting pattern, which outlines the colored shapes, is called echo stitching.

For a closer look, visit: https://www.internationalquiltmuseum.org/quilt/20180350003

My Galaxy, made by Tony Berlant and

Diane Berry in Kingston, Ontario, Canada,

in 1976-77. IQM 2008.042.0003

This original quilt shows a pattern

of appliquéd cats! With their

curved backs and tails and pointy

ears, cats make for an excellent

shape to appliqué. This quilt is

large enough to fit on a large

bed, so that the owner could be

covered in cats.

For a closer look, visit: https://www.internationalquiltmuseum.org/quilt/20080420003

Squirrel and Acorn, made in the United States by

an unidentified maker, circa 1980-90.

IQM 2006.043.0018

Though this quilt also features an animal

as its main focus, here the quiltmaker

has stuck to a more traditional format

of four repeating blocks showing the

same image. The light tan border pieces

frame each scene of a squirrel eating an

acorn amid colorful fall leave.

Why do you think the top pair of

squirrels are facing each other, but the

bottom pair are facing away?

For a closer look, visit:

https://www.internationalquiltmuseum.org/quilt/20060430018

Original, Story Quilt, made by Elizabeth Savanhu

in Zimbabwe, circa 2006. IQM 2006.040.0001

This quilt, made in Zimbabwe, shows

scenes of daily life in the maker’s

home. Appliqué with many different

layered fabrics was used to create the

figures in each block, showing them

playing games, doing chores and making

art.

For a closer look, visit: https://www.internationalquiltmuseum.org/quilt/20060400001

Holiday in Suzdal, made by Lidya Lebedeva and Luba

Karlycheva in Suzdal, Russia, circa 2006. IQM 2018.008.0007

In this story quilt from Russia, appliqué was used to

create a scene from the makers’ hometown. Four

young women in traditional sarafan dresses and

headscarves dance in a field across the river from

the Church of St. Nicholas, one of many churches in

the ancient town of Suzdal. In 1864 Suzdal

businessmen tried to convince the government to

route the Trans-Siberian Railway through their

town, but failed. As a result, much of Suzdal’s

centuries-old architecture survives to this day.

For a closer look, visit:

https://www.internationalquiltmuseum.org/quilt/20180080007

Glossary

Appliqué

noun

Decoration, such as a cutout design, that is sewn on to or otherwise connected to a

piece of fabric.

verb ap·pli·quéd, ap·pli·qué·ing.

To apply something as appliqué to a background.

Raw Edge Appliqué

An appliqué method where the shapes are cut to the exact size needed and the edges

are kept “raw,” and not turned under. This method is generally either used for fabric art

where fraying edges will not matter, with a non-fraying material such as felt, or

reinforced with fusible materials to prevent fraying.

Needle Turn Appliqué

A hand appliqué method where the shapes are cut with a small (¼-inch) border, which is

then “turned under” the shape during sewing, to create a clean, folded edge. This

method is most often used for quilts, clothing, and other projects that will be folded,

washed, and frequently used, rather than only displayed.

“Right Side” of fabric

This is the side of a piece of fabric that is more colorful and

vibrant, the “face” that looks out at the world. On printed

fabric, it’s the side it’s easiest to see the pattern on. On

solid-color fabric without a pattern, it’s the side that seems

brighter, and often it’s harder to see the texture of the fabric

weave.

“Wrong Side” of fabric

This is the side of a piece of fabric that looks “faded”. On printed fabrics this side will often

be paler, with more white threads visible. On solid-colored fabrics, this side will be duller,

and often the threads that make up the weave will be more visible.

Running Stitch - Also called “straight stitch” or “dolphin stitch”

A basic sewing stitch that makes a line of small, even stitches that run

in and out of the cloth like a leaping dolphin or a single line of

footsteps.

(Running stitch mage by Jomegat, Wikimedia Commons)

Slip Stitch - Also called “invisible stitch”

A stitch used to hide the appearance of the stitches. It is made by running the needle inside a

fold or meeting point and picking up a thread or two from one side, then the other, without

the needle passing fully through the outside-facing fabric.

Whip Stitch

A sewing stitch where the needle passes through one or two

layers fabric and is then pulled over the edge and re-inserted,

so that the thread circles the outside edge of the fabric.

(Whip stitch image by Jomegat, Wikimedia Commons)

Other stitch examples:

Hand Sewing Stitches by Hellosewing. Image courtesy Wikimedia Commons.